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Jumping Worms

Amynthas agrestis + Amynthas tokioensis + Metaphire hilgendorfi
Updated Oct 29, 2026
 
1

Make a Positive Identification

  • Jumping worms are non-native worms. There are three recognized species that are invasive in the US. They have recently been detected in Oregon. 
  • Their feeding habits damage soil structure. This increases erosion and harms plants growing in the soil.
  • Jumping worms and their cocoons may be brought to new areas as fishing bait. They are also transported in soil, compost, and other organic materials.
Species:
Jumping worms stretched out next to a ruler

Njh5880, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The first thing most people notice about jumping worms is that they thrash wildly and irregularly. They have a large and distinct mouth.
They are red/brown/purple with iridescence, and 2.75 to 6.3 inches (70-160 mm) long. Their bodies can have 63-100 segments.
Stiff bristles called “setae” encircle each segment.

Species:
Jumping worm showing pale clitellum band (cropped)

"Amynthas" by Erin E. is licensed under CC BY 4.0 

The “clitellum” is a pale, smooth band a few segments behind the head end. It completely encircles the worm and is flush with the body.
Body segments between the head and clitellum are raised.

Species:
Barren, granular soil

Jumping worm excrement accumulates in the top few inches of soil. It is hard and granular, resembling coffee grounds. The granules repel water. They make the soil very porous and unable to hold water and nutrients.

Species:
Small cocoons next to a ruler

Marie Johnston, UW-Madison Arboretum, permission request needed

Cocoons are very tiny, 1/12 to 1/6 inches (2 to 4 mm) and similar in color to dirt. They overwinter, then hatch in spring. They can survive for several years and hatch during a wet spring. Cocoons can be transported in soil, mulch, mud on shoes, etc.

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Look-alikes
Species: Common earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris)
Common earthworm in grass

Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org

The common earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris) is red/brown. It is 7.8 to 11.8 inches (200-300 mm) long and does not thrash violently. The clitellum is raised, not flush, and does not completely encircle the body. It is similar in color to the rest of the body.

Species:
European nightcrawler by rock

"Dendrobaena veneta" by carnifex is licensed under CC BY 4.0

The European nightcrawler (Dendrobaena veneta) is red/brown. It is 2 to 6 inches (50-155 mm) long and does not thrash violently. The clitellum is raised, not flush, and does not completely encircle the body. It is similar in color to the rest of the body.

 
2

Jumping Worms Benefits

Jumping worms are regarded as pests. They don’t have any benefit for people or the environment.

 

Jumping Worms Risks

Jumping Worms damage soil structure. Their feeding and excrement make soil granular and porous. Water moves through quickly and is not held. This can cause unwanted changes in the ecosystem.

Risk Card
Does it cause harm?
Adults & Children
None
Property
Some
Pets
None
Annoyance
Low
Environment
High
Action Recommended
 
3

TAKE ACTION

Jumping worms are already a serious problem in the east and midwest. They are now showing up in Oregon. Watch for them in soil.

What damage do jumping worms cause?

Jumping worms are a serious invasive pest and could damage Oregon ecosystems if allowed to spread.

Do I need to take action?
Yes. Jumping worms can spread rapidly. Their damage is quickly visible in gardens and they can spread from there.

 
4

Prevent Jumping Worms

Gloved hands using brush to clean boot treads

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

DON’T TRANSPORT THEM ON CLOTHES AND EQUIPMENT
  • Jumping worm cocoons are very tiny. People can unknowingly spread them in soil and on equipment. 
  • Clean compost, soil and debris from clothing, boot treads, and gardening tools before moving to and from sites. 
  • Clean equipment and tires between locations. Watch for large clumps of dirt caught in tire treads.
DON’T TRANSPORT THEM IN SOIL OR PLANT ROOTS

Jumping worms and cocoons may be spread in the soil and roots of plants. 

  • Where jumping worms are known to occur, avoid sharing compost, mulch, soil, or plants.
  • Buy bare-root plants when possible.
  • Inspect plant soil, compost, mulch, and loose soil before moving them into or out of your yard.
  • If you do share plants, first wash the roots free of all soil. Strain out the soil (and possible cocoons) and dispose in the trash.
  • Re-pot in new sterile potting mix, or plant bare-root.
Sign saying "Live Bait"

"Live Bait" by nic_r is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0

DON’T BUY THEM AS BAIT
  • Never buy fishing bait under the name Jumping Worm, Asian Jumping Worm, Crazy Worms, Alabama Jumpers, or Snake Worms.
  • Inspect strongly thrashing worms sold as bait. They could be jumping worms.
  • Seal all fishing bait as tightly as possible
  • Seal unused fishing bait and dispose of it in the trash.
  • Don’t discard bait worms in or near natural areas.
DON’T CONFUSE THEM WITH EARTHWORMS
  • Earthworms bought for vermicomposting, gardening, or bait may be mislabeled jumping worms.
  • Learn to tell jumping worms from common earthworms and other lookalikes.
 
5
Solutions for Jumping Worms

Solutions for jumping worms

Currently there are no proven, researched-based ways to manage jumping worm populations. Research is ongoing. Non-chemical  methods which may have limited success include:

  • Early Detection & Hand-picking
  • Soil heating or solarizing
  • Tilling

Chemical methods

  • There are no pesticides approved for worm control in yards and gardens.
     

NEED HELP?

Consider a licensed pest control company. Learn How to Hire a Pest Control Company.
Your local Extension Specialist in Oregon  and other states  can suggest other methods.

Jump to

Method Does it work? Is it safe? Recommendation
A
Non-chemical methods
Somewhat effective
Low risk
 
A

Non-chemical methods

Non-Chemical Method

Non-chemical methods

Does it work?
Somewhat effective

These methods will not kill all jumping worms if there is a large population. If you catch them before they spread, you may be able to stop them.

How much effort?
Moderate effort
What's the risk?
Low risk
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE
Hand holding jumping worm
Early detection & Hand-picking
  • Inspect soil, compost, and mulch before moving it into or out of your yard.
  • Watch for jumping worm castings (poop) in your garden. They resemble coffee grounds.
  • If you find jumping worms, hand pick them.
  • Drop them into a bucket of soapy or vinegar water, freeze them or leave them in a bag in the sun. Dispose of them in the trash once they are dead.
  • Bag all contaminated soils, mulches or compost and put in the trash.
Plastic stretched tightly over raised bed

"Soil Solarization" by “FelixWong” is licensed under “CC BY 4.0”

Soil Heating or Solarizing
  • Jumping worms and their eggs and cocoons will die at temperatures above 104°F (40°C).
  • Cover sections of soil or compost that receive direct sunlight with clear plastic.
  • The soil must reach 104°F for at least three days.
  • This method may work best in areas bounded by pavement or lawn. Otherwise jumping worms can just move to cooler soil.
  • Place smaller amounts of infested soil in plastic bins or bags. Place in direct sunlight to heat for at least three days.
Man using rototiller in garden area
Tilling
  • Tilling can kill many worms, though it won’t eliminate them.
  • May is good time to till, after many of them have hatched and before they mature.

Invasive Species Alert

open Map static invasive map
Invasive species data @ 2022, iMapInvasives (NatureServe)

If you find signs of jumping worm anywhere in Oregon, please report it.

View Larger Map >

Content developed by Signe Danler (editor/writer) and reviewed by Thomas A. Jima.

  Peer review facilitated by OSU Department of Horticulture.

Signe Danler

Signe Danler (Editor/Writer)

Signe Danler is a veteran Master Gardener and landscape designer, with an MAg degree in Horticulture from OSU, and an emphasis on Urban Horticulture. As instructor for the OSU Extension Service online Home Horticulture and Master Gardener Program, she uses her experience and training in gardening, urban forestry and ecological landscaping to communicate about and promote sustainable gardening and landscaping practices.

Thomas A. Jima

Thomas A. Jima (Coordinator/Editor)

Thomas is Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Educator at Oregon State University – Oregon IPM Center. He holds an M.S. in Plant Biology with a specialization in Plant Pathology, an M.S. in Entomology, along with a B.S. in Plant Sciences. With over 12 years of international experience, Thomas has worked as a specialist advisor in agricultural development, research, project management, capacity building, and clientele management, with a strong focus on Plant Protection and IPM.