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Broom

Cytisus scoparius + similar species
Updated Oct 27, 2024
 
1

Make a Positive Identification

  • Broom species are evergreen shrubs with bright yellow flowers.
  • Multiple species of broom were introduced to the Pacific Northwest as ornamental plants and for erosion control.
  • They displace native plants and forestry seedlings.
  • Control for the various species of broom is the same.
Scotch Broom
Species: Broom
Many broom plants with yellow flowers

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Mature broom shrubs are 3–10 feet tall with dense, slender stems and yellow flowers. Many broom shrubs often grow together.

Species: Broom
Broom flowers

The flowers are yellow and about 1 inch long and typical of many plants in the pea family.

Species: Broom
Broom growing on road cut

Eric Coombs, Oregon Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org

Broom species are nitrogen-fixing plants. This trait helps broom grow in areas with poor quality and disturbed soils.

Species: Broom
Broom seed pods

Seed pods (fruits) are hairy along the seam and turn from green to brown as they dry.

Species: Broom
Broom seeds on blue background

Steve Hurst, USDA NRCS PLANTS Database, Bugwood.org

A mature broom plant produces about 15,000 seeds per year. The seeds remain viable in the soil for ten or more years.

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Broom Species Comparison
Species: Scotch Broom
Scotch broom stems, leaves, and flowers

Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius) is the most common broom species in the Pacific Northwest. The photo of Scotch broom stems and leaves is shown for comparison with other species of broom.

Species: Spanich Broom
Spanish broom stems and flowers

Spanish broom (Spartium junceum) looks like Scotch broom. Spanish broom’s stems are thicker and rougher. Spanish broom has very few leaves. The flowers are larger and fewer in number than Scotch broom’s flowers.

Species: Portuguese Broom
Portuguese broom stems and seed pods

Oregon Department of Agriculture

Portuguese broom (Cytisus striatus) looks like Scotch broom except the seed pods are hairy. This makes them look like pussy willow buds.

Species: French Broom
French broom stems, leaves, and flowers

French broom (Genista monspessulana) looks like Scotch broom except the plants do not grow as erect. French broom’s leaves are large, numerous, and have three lobes. The leaves are retained the entire year.

LOOK-ALIKE: GORSE
Species: Gorse
Gorse stems, leaves, spines, and flowers

Gorse (Ulex europaeus) is a pea-family shrub that is also invasive in the Pacific Northwest. Unlike broom, gorse has sharp, green spines. The spines make gorse stems difficult to handle without puncture-resistant gloves and clothing.


Take action

Take action to control gorse. Control methods are similar to methods for broom.

Free help Identifying Weeds, Insects & Pests
Get expert pest management info & advice online from OSU's Ask Extension.
Get Help
 
2

Broom Benefits

  • These pea-family shrubs fix nitrogen, which helps them to grow in disturbed areas.
 

Broom Risks

  • Broom quickly establishes over large areas and forms dense stands. It suppresses native plant growth.
  • Broom increases wildfire strength and frequency.
  • Broom reduces livestock forage quality and invades timber land.
  • Controlling the spread of broom in the Pacific Northwest costs public and private landowners a lot of money.
Risk Card
Does it cause harm?
Adults & Children
Some
Property
High
Pets
None
Annoyance
High
Environment
High
Action Recommended
 
3

TAKE ACTION

Take action to control broom on property you manage.

Do I need to take action?
Yes. Remove brooms or manage broom plants to prevent seed production.

What if I do nothing?
Broom will spread by seeds to new areas. The longer you wait to act, the more time and effort will be required to control broom.

 
4

Prevent Broom

Broom seedlings look like tiny pine trees

Bruce Newhouse, Oregon Flora Project

Look for Broom Regrowth
  • Broom stems will re-grow after cutting back. 
  • After you disturb a stand of broom, new broom seeds will germinate. Seedlings look like tiny pine trees.
  • Look for young broom plants and remove or kill them as soon as possible.
Gloved hand using metal brush to clean shovel

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Remove Dirt from Shoes and Equipment
  • After working or traveling in a broom stand, clean your boots and tools. Use a wire brush to remove all soil that may contain seeds.
  • If you drive into a broom stand, clean your vehicle.
Landscape area with native plants growing densely together

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Replant the Affected Area
  • After broom is removed, desirable plants that were buried underneath often regrow.
  • After you start a broom control program, consider replanting the area. Replant with a variety of native shrubs, trees, and ground-cover plants.
  • Replanting is needed when broom growth or removal significantly damages a site and few or no desirable plants remain.
  • Replanting stabilizes the soil surface and shades broom seedlings.
  • Brooms do not thrive in dense shade. But seedlings will persist under shade and wait for a gap to open in the canopy.
  • Check plantings yearly for broom seedlings.
Area damaged by invasive plants growth and removal replanted with native plants

Carmen Hauser, iStock

Replant Larger Areas with Technical Support
  • Broom is difficult to remove from an infested area. Replanting a previously infested area requires planning and effort.
  • Create a multi-year re-vegetation plan. Plans include site preparation and planting details, plant care, and follow-up control for broom and other weeds.
  • Plan for at least 2-3 years of monitoring and maintenance.
  • Your local Extension specialist, soil and water conservation district, or a professional re-vegetation specialist, can suggest strategies for your area.
 
5
Solutions for Broom

Early Detection & Rapid Response

Watch for broom on property you manage. Remove it before it becomes a bigger problem.

Physical Removal of Plants & Non-Chemical Options

  • Cut mature broom plants with main stems three inches or larger. Cut as low on the plant as you can, near the soil surface. Broom will regrow and further action will be needed to control it.
  • Dig out plants with main stems less than three inches tall. Or, use a Weed Wrench™ or similar tool to pull them out of the ground.
  • Grazing, biocontrol, and continued cutting are other options to control regrowth.

Herbicides (Weed Killers)

  • Herbicides effectively control broom when used according to the label instructions.
  • Herbicide treatment is a common technique to control broom regrowth after use of other control methods.

Monitoring & Follow-Up

  • In areas where broom plants grow, expect new seedlings for many years. Plants produce many seeds that remain viable in the soil for years.
  • Look for broom on your property every year and act as needed.
  • After you remove broom plants, new plants will grow in the same spot. You will need to take steps to prevent them.

Controlling Large Stands of Broom

Large stands of broom can cover many acres. They are often controlled with heavy equipment. It grinds or bulldozes broom plants to prepare for ongoing control actions.

NEED HELP?

Consider a licensed pest control company. Learn How to Hire a Pest Control Company.
Your local Extension Specialist in Oregon  and other states  can suggest other methods.

Jump to

Method Does it work? Is it safe? Recommendation
A
Physically Remove Plants
Effective
Low risk
B
Targeted Grazing
Somewhat effective
Low risk
C
Biocontrol for Broom
Somewhat effective
Low risk
D
Control with Herbicides
Effective
Moderate risk
Use if Necessary
E
If Using Herbicides, Protect Yourself & Minimize Risks
 
A

Physically Remove Plants

Non-Chemical Method

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Physically Remove Plants

Dig out individual plants and small patches. Remove the roots. Broom may regrow if all the roots are not removed.

Does it work?
Effective
  • Several years of monitoring and effort are required to get rid of broom.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
High effort
  • Cut and remove stems to access roots. Dig the roots out with tools.
  • Return to the area each year and take action as needed.
What's the risk?
Low risk
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE
  • Control large broom plants by cutting stems near the ground. Expect regrowth from the stem that is left. Plan further action to kill the new shoots.
  • Dig or pull out plants when the soil is moist. Soil disturbance encourages seed to germinate.
  • Use a chipper to dispose of the plants or compost plants in place.
Large broom plants near building

Leslie J. Mehrhoff, University of Connecticut, Bugwood.org

Manage older stands of broom by cutting stems near the ground. Expect regrowth from the stem that is left. Plan to follow up with continued cutting or other means of controlling the regrowth.

A selection of hand tools for removing broom plants

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Cut stems with loppers or saw. Dig out the root crown with picks, shovels, or similar tools.

Worker using weed wrench tool to remove a shrub

James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Manual removal of Scotch broom is effective but labor intensive. Using a Weed Wrench™ or similar tool makes it easier to remove larger shrubs.

Worker feeding cut plant stems into tractor-mounted chipper

manonallard, iStock

Use a chipper to dispose of the stems. Or compost the plant material in place. Use loppers or a saw to cut the branches so they lie flat and make a pile with the branches. This step will help the material to break down faster and create less fire risk.

Broom Removal Tips

  • Cut stems during the dry season (July to August). Or cut before or during flowering (late winter through early summer), before seed pods mature.
  • Herbicide treatment is a common technique to control regrowth. Grazing, biocontrol, and continued cutting are other options to control regrowth.
  • Look for regrowth. Control it as needed.

Removing Broom with Tools

  • Dig or pull out plants when the soil is moist. Soil disturbance encourages seed to germinate.
  • Use a chipper to dispose of the plants or compost plants in place.
  • The best time to pull plants out of the ground is after rain and before warm, dry weather. Moist soil makes it easier to pull young broom plants out of the ground.
  • Soil disturbance encourages seed to germinate. Return to the site and kill seedlings.

Soil Disturbance & Erosion

  • Minimize soil disturbance as much as possible when removing broom.
  • Regrade the soil after digging broom roots. Apply mulch (when appropriate).
  • Take steps to prevent erosion as needed.
  • Replant the area to shade broom seedlings.
 
B

Targeted Grazing

Non-Chemical Method

Scott Bauer, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org

Targeted Grazing

  • Goats browse broom without ill effect. Sheep eat young shoots and small plants.
  • Broom is mildly toxic to grazing animals, which may affect palatability.
Does it work?
Somewhat effective
  • Goats eat broom and can be used as part of an overall broom management plan.
  • Broom plants will sprout new stems following grazing.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
Moderate effort
  • Establish temporary fences to contain the livestock in an area with broom.
  • Move the livestock before they damage desired plants.
What's the risk?
Low risk
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE

Grazing is an effective way to reduce broom canopy and keep it from flowering. For best results, follow up with other control activities.

Broom grazing Tips

  • After livestock eat the plants, broom will grow new stems.
  • Goats will eat desirable vegetation as well as the targeted weed.
  • Grazing broom is most effective on young plants when plant density is low. Older plants are more resistant to grazing.
  • If you don’t own livestock, you’ll need to find and contract a service that performs vegetation management with animals.
  • Contact professional pest control companies with experience grazing goats to control broom.
  • Ask your Soil and Water Conservation District  (Oregon) for referrals.

Livestock Grazing Reference

For details about grazing, see Livestock Grazing Guidelines for Controlling Noxious Weeds in the Western United States  (University of Nevada, Reno).

 
C

Biocontrol for Broom

Non-Chemical Method

Laura Parsons, University of Idaho, PSES, Bugwood.org

Biocontrol for Broom

  • Collect and redistribute insects that attack broom seeds and stems as part of a long-term control strategy.
  • These insects reduce seed viability and weaken plants.
Does it work?
Somewhat effective
  • Biocontrol on its own won’t get rid of broom. Combine it with other control methods.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
Moderate effort
  • Collect insects from an established stand of broom.
  • Distribute the insects on broom plants at your site.
  • Monitor your site for biocontrol insect activity.
What's the risk?
Low risk
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE
Scotch broom seeds damaged by seed weevils

Laura Parsons, University of Idaho, PSES, Bugwood.org

The photo shows Scotch broom seeds that have been damaged by weevils. Most state agriculture agencies support the use and redistribution of three biological control agents for Scotch broom:

  • Scotch broom seed beetle (Bruchidius villosus)
  • Scotch broom seed weevil (Exapion fuscirostre)
  • Scotch broom twig miner moth (Leucoptera spartifoliella)
Adult and child using stick and paper to collect biocontrol insects

Eric Coombs, Oregon Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org

Collect insects from established stands of Scotch broom in this way:

  • Use a stick to strike plant stems and collect the insects on a fabric or paper surface.
  • Transport the collected insects in a container to new areas. Distribute the insects to contribute to long-term control of this invasive species.

Biocontrol Reference

For more information about biocontrol for broom, see Weed Biological Control  (Oregon Department of Agriculture).

 
D

Control with Herbicides

Chemical Method: Use with caution

Chameleonseye, iStock

Control with Herbicides

Use if Necessary
Does it work?
Effective
  • Herbicides effectively control broom when used according to label directions.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
Moderate effort
  • It requires several years of monitoring and effort to get rid of broom.
  • Treat individual broom plants and patches.
  • Return to the area each year and take action as needed.
What's the risk?
Moderate risk
  • Herbicides come with real risks. ALWAYS read the entire label front to back. Review instructions even for brands you know.
  • Herbicides can run off your site into waterways and may harm wildlife. See How to Keep Pesticides Out of Waterways.
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
El uso de herbicidas conlleva cierto grado de riesgo. El riesgo más bajo se presenta con el uso de métodos alternativos.

You may be exposed to an herbicide if you:

  • Get it on your skin
  • Breathe it in
  • Eat or smoke afterward without washing hands
  • Touch or eat plants that are wet with spray (you, pets, or children)
  • Bring it inside on your shoes or clothes

Follow directions closely to reduce risk.

Some herbicides are available for home use. A few are listed below. These active ingredients, used individually or in a mixture, are suggested chemical treatments to control Scotch broom. Look for these chemical names in the “Active Ingredients” section of product labels.

  • 2,4-D + Dicamba
  • Sulfentrazone 
  • MCPP-P
  • Triclopyr
  • Quinclorac

Suggested active ingredients are from the Pesticide Information Center Online (PICOL) Database. They are permitted for HOME use in Oregon. Read the label for application directions and effectiveness information.

ONLY professional pesticide applicators can use Restricted-Use Pesticides (RUP) that may be more effective. For larger stands of Scotch broom contact a licensed pesticide applicator with experience controlling Scotch broom.

Herbicide label highlighting active ingredient triclopyr

Sample product label with Active Ingredient highlighted

  • A red box on the example label highlights active ingredient triclopyr.  Text on the label states “Kills completely - stumps and roots won’t regrow.”
  • Triclopyr doesn’t injure most grasses. It is a good choice for treating broom that is growing next to desired grasses in lawn, pasture, and meadow areas.
  • Some products with triclopyr (ester formulations) become a vapor when applied on hot days. The vapor can drift and damage nearby plants. Check the label for temperature limits.

Herbicide Application Tips

  • Most of these ingredients will damage most plants and grasses. Don’t let the spray contact plants you want to keep.
  • Apply herbicide to broom in the spring or early summer when it is actively growing, before or after it blooms. Treat broom before seed pods develop to minimize seed production.
  • Herbicides may be less effective if applied to flowering broom plants. The flowers shield the foliage and make the herbicide application less effective.
  • Common herbicide application techniques include foliar (leaves), cut-stump, and basal bark application. See examples below.
  • Broom may take several months to die following an herbicide application.
  • Large stands of broom killed by an herbicide could be a fire hazard. Consider removing or composting the dead plants.
  • Monitor the area for regrowth and re-treat every year, if needed.
Minimize the potential impact of herbicides to bees and other pollinators. Treat broom plants before they flower. If plants are flowering when you need to treat them, use the cut-stump or basal bark herbicide application technique. Avoid spraying pollinators directly. For more information, see OSU’s How to Reduce Bee Poisoning from Pesticides.

Herbicide Application Methods

Foliar (leaves), basal bark, and cut-stump application methods all effectively kill broom. Choose the right method for your situation.

Worker spraying herbicide tall foliage

Max Williamson, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Foliar (Leaves) Application

  • Only spray herbicide on the foliage of broom when nearby plants can be avoided. The spray could damage plants you want to keep.
  • A backpack sprayer is effective for treating small areas.
  • For large infestations, start with a foliar application to kill the seedlings, saplings, and shoots. Follow up with basal-bark or cut-stump applications on the remaining stems.
Diagram of basal-bark herbicide application technique

James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Basal-Bark Application

  • This works best for stems that are less than 6 inches in diameter.
  • Concentrated herbicide (oil soluble) is mixed with another ingredient (adjuvant), typically a seed oil.
  • The mixture is sprayed on stems from the ground to a height of 12–18 inches.
  • The plant absorbs the herbicide sprayed in the trunk. The herbicide moves to the roots.
Gloved hand spraying herbicide with dye on cut stump

Lyon Duong, UF/IFAS

Cut-Stump Application

  • Cut stems as close to the ground level as possible.
  • Remove sawdust and debris from the cut.
  • Apply concentrated herbicide to the area just inside the bark. This area has living tissue (cambium) that will transport the herbicide to the roots.
  • Apply herbicide as soon as possible after cutting the stem.
  • For cut-stump applications, triclopyr is more effective during the early summer. Glyphosate is more effective when applied from mid-summer to leaf fall.
 

If Using Herbicides, Protect Yourself & Minimize Risks

Chemical Method: Use with Caution
Blue heron in marsh

BrianLasenby, iStock

Why is it important to read herbicide labels?

  • They have detailed information on how to use the product correctly and legally.
  • They contain information on potential hazards of the product.
  • They provide instructions you should follow for poisonings and spills.
  • Following label instructions helps you to minimize the risks and maximize the benefits.

Key Herbicide Safety Tips

  • Read the entire label front to back.
  • Follow the instructions.
  • Review the instructions even for brands you know.
  • Only apply the product where the label says it may be applied.
  • Be precise in your application. More is not better.

The Label is the Law

ALWAYS read the label before using herbicide products. The label is a legal document that provides information on how to safely use the herbicide. This helps avoid harm to human health and the environment. Using an herbicide in off-label ways is illegal. It can result in legal enforcement actions.

READ THE LABEL & Follow Instructions
It has instructions to protect you and the environment.

  • Labels are different for every product and they often change over time.
  • Use a magnifying glass for small print.
  • Pay attention to CAUTION, WARNING, and DANGER statements.
  • Pay attention to the PRECAUTIONARY STATEMENTS.
  • The law states you must read and follow herbicide instructions.

Protect Yourself
Eye, skin & lung irritants

  • Wear the right protective gear. This often includes chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses, a long-sleeve shirt, pants, socks, and shoes.
  • Mix outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
  • Wash hands after mixing or applying, and before eating or smoking.
  • Take a shower immediately after handling herbicides.
  • Wash clothes worn while mixing or applying separately from other laundry.

Protect Children & Pets
Children and pets are at risk if they eat or touch the plants before it dries.

  • Keep them away during and after applying herbicides (read label for how long).
  • Remove toys and pet dishes from yard before applying.
  • Don’t track herbicide products into your home on shoes or clothes.

Protect Plants You Want to Keep

  • Glyphosate and similar herbicide ingredients damage both grass and broadleaf plants.
  • Minimize spraying of foliage, stems, exposed roots, or the trunks of desirable shrubs or trees to avoid harm.
  • Follow the label to avoid damaging the roots of trees and shrubs.

Avoid Wet, Windy, or Hot Weather
Use during favorable weather for best results.

  • Don’t spray when it’s raining or when rain is expected in the next 24 hours.
  • Wind causes spray to drift that can get on you and desired plants.
  • Herbicides may be less effective in hot weather if the target plants are moisture-stressed.
  • Some herbicides can turn into a vapor in hot weather and damage nearby plants.

Protect Pollinators

  • Apply in the early morning or evening when bees are less active.
  • Kill weeds before they flower. Avoid spraying flowering plants.
  • Do not spray on bees or insects.

Storage & Disposal

  • Store in a secure area away from children.
  • Don’t put unused herbicide products in the trash.
  • Never pour down any drain or waterway.
  • Take unused herbicides to a hazardous waste facility.

Call  1-800-CLEANUP (1-800-253-2687) to find out where to dispose of herbicides.

For the Portland metro region in Oregon, contact Metro’s Recycling Information. Call  503-234-3000, email   or visit Metro’s website  

More about:

About Using Pesticides on School Grounds in Oregon

If using pesticides on school grounds, there are special rules in Oregon. See School Integrated Pest Management  (Oregon Department of Agriculture).

NEED HELP?

The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC)  can answer questions about pest control chemicals.
 1-800-858-7378 or npic@ace.orst.edu  

Consider using a licensed pest or weed control company. Learn How to Hire a Pest Control Company.

Your local Extension Specialist in Oregon  and other states  can suggest other methods.

Invasive Species Alert

  • Invasives are non-native species that spread aggressively and alter the environment.
  • Controlling broom is costly.
  • Please do your part to control it on property you manage. It can spread beyond your property and impact your neighbors.

If you think you’ve found broom in the grey areas of this map, please report it to the Oregon Invasive Species Hotline at:  1-866-INVADER (1-888-468-2337) or use their online reporting form  

open Map static invasive map
Invasive species data @ 2022, iMapInvasives (NatureServe)

The map shows the distribution of Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius) in Oregon. If you find broom (any species) in a new area (orange shows already reported cases), please report it  

View Larger Map >

Content provided by editor Weston Miller and writers Jessica Green and J. Jeremiah Mann. Pesticide safety information edited by Kaci Buhl.

  Peer review facilitated by OSU Department of Horticulture.

Photo of Weston Miller

Weston Miller

Project Founder and Content Writer

Weston Miller served as Community and Urban Horticulture faculty for Oregon State University Extension Service for Clackamas, Multnomah, and Washington Counties. Weston is an author for content for this website. He developed funding partnerships with Portland area agencies to initiate and build out the Solve Pest Problems website focused on this goals:

Photo of Jessica Green

Jessica Green

Jessica Green has held various positions at Oregon State University for over 15 years. She was one of the original content contributors for Solve Pest Problems and now assists with maintaining the resource for the Oregon IPM Center. Jessica is a contributing author/editor for the PNW Weed and Insect Management handbooks, has designed and conducted research trials, and now serves as an educator for OSU's Pesticide Safety Education Program (PSEP).

J. Jeremiah Mann

J. Jeremiah Mann

J. Jeremiah Mann completed a Physical Science undergraduate degree at Humboldt State University, and M.S, Ph.D focusing on plant science topics at UC Davis. He went on to work for the Natural Resources Conservation Service and in a leadership position serving a private agricultural technology company. He currently lives in Sacramento California where he consults on pest and property management topics.

Photo of Kaci Buhl

Kaci Buhl

At the state level, I lead the Pesticide Safety Education Program (PSEP). The program hosts live recertification events around the state, serving over 1,000 licensed pesticide applicators each year. We also produce web-based training modules and license-preparation study manuals. Special training for unlicensed pesticide applicators is also available through a grant from the USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant Program. The PSEP at OSU works closely with the Oregon Department of Agriculture's Pesticides Division.