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Gorse

Ulex europaeus
Updated Nov 21, 2022
 
1

Make a Positive Identification

  • Gorse is an evergreen shrub with bright-yellow flowers. Its green leaves are modified into large and dangerous spines.
  • Plants increase wildfire strength and frequency.
Species: Gorse
Gorse plant with yellow flowers

Mature gorse shrubs are 3–10 feet tall with dense, slender stems and yellow flowers. Many gorse shrubs often grow together.

Species: Gorse
Gorse flowers on stem

Eric Coombs, Oregon Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org

The flowers are about 1 inch long and typical of many plants in the pea family.

Species: Gorse
Gorse stem with spines

Gorse spines are large and dangerous. If you are injured by a gorse spine, clean the wound with soap and water.

Species: Gorse
Gorse seed pods

Forest and Kim Starr, Starr Environmental, Bugwood.org

Seed pods (fruits) are hairy along the seam and turn from green to brown as they dry. Mature plants produce thousands of seeds per year. The seeds remain viable in the soil for 10 or more years.

Species: Gorse
Workers near large gorse stand on a coastal bluff

Eric Coombs, Oregon Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org

Gorse is a nitrogen-fixing plant. This trait helps it grow in areas with poor quality and disturbed soils such as the coastal bluff shown in the photo.

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LOOK-ALIKE: BROOM SPECIES
Species: Broom
Broom plants with yellow flower

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius) and related species are pea family shrubs with yellow flowers. They are invasive in the Pacific Northwest. Unlike gorse, broom does not have spines.


Take action

Control options for gorse and broom are similar.

 
2

Gorse Benefits

  • Gorse is a nitrogen-fixing plant. It grows quickly and covers the soil.
  • It was originally planted in the Pacific Northwest for erosion control.
 

Gorse Risks

  • The green leaves of gorse are modified into large and dangerous spines. The sharp spines limit people’s access to infested areas.
  • Gorse quickly establishes over large areas. It outcompetes native plants and forms dense stands.
  • Gorse increases wildfire strength and frequency.
  • Gorse reduces livestock forage quality and invades timber land.
  • Having to control gorse in the Pacific Northwest has a significant economic impact on public and private landowners. It is expensive to control.
Risk Card
Does it cause harm?
Adults & Children
High
Property
High
Pets
High
Annoyance
High
Environment
High
Action Highly Recommended
 
3

TAKE ACTION

Take action to control gorse on property you manage.

Do I need to take action?
Yes. Control gorse plants to keep them from producing seed.

What if I do nothing?
Gorse will spread by seeds to new areas. The longer you wait to act, the more time and effort will be required to control gorse.

 
4

Prevent Gorse

Look For Gorse Regrowth & Seedlings

Significant stem regrowth from cut stumps of gorse is common following treatment.

After you disturb a stand of gorse, seeds will germinate. Look for young gorse plants and kill them as soon as possible.

Seedlings arise from the soil and look like tiny pine trees.

Remove Dirt from Shoes and Equipment

After working or traveling in a gorse stand, clean your boots and tools. Use a wire brush to remove all soil that may contain seeds.

If you drive into a gorse stand, clean your vehicle.

Replant the Affected Area
  • After gorse is removed, desirable plants that were buried underneath gorse often regrow.
  • After you implement a gorse control program, consider replanting the area. Replant with a variety of native shrubs, trees, and ground covers.
  • Replanting is needed when gorse growth or removal significantly damages a site and few or no desirable plants remain.
  • Replanting stabilizes the soil surface and shades gorse seedlings.
  • Gorse doesn’t thrive in dense shade. But seedlings will persist under shade, waiting for a gap to open in the canopy.
  • Check established plantings yearly for gorse seedlings.
Replant Larger Areas with Technical Support

Gorse is difficult to get rid of from an infested area. Replanting a previously infested area requires planning and effort.

Create a multi-year revegetation plan. Plans include site preparation and planting details, plant care, and follow-up control for gorse and other weeds. Plan for at least 2-3 years of monitoring and maintenance.

Your local extension specialist in Oregon and in other states or a professional revegetation specialist can suggest strategies for your area.

 
5
Solutions for Gorse

Early Detection and Rapid Response

Watch for gorse on property you manage. Remove it before it becomes a bigger problem.

Physical Removal of Plants and Non-Chemical Options

Cut mature gorse plants with primary stems three inches or larger near the soil surface. Gorse will regrow below the cut and further action will be needed to kill new stems.

Dig out plants with primary stems less than three inches or use a Weed Wrench™ or similar tool to pull them out of the ground.

Herbicides (Weed Killers)

Herbicides effectively control gorse when used according to the label instructions.

Monitoring & Follow-Up

  • In areas where gorse plants grow, expect new seedlings to emerge on the site for many years. Plants produce many seeds that remain viable in the soil for years.
  • Look for gorse on your property every year and act as needed.
  • After you remove gorse plants, new plants will grow in the same spot unless you take steps to prevent them.

Controlling Large Stands of Gorse

Multi-acre stands are often controlled with heavy equipment that grind or bulldoze gorse plants in preparation for ongoing control actions.

NEED HELP?

Consider a licensed pest control company. Learn How to Hire a Pest Control Company.
Your local Extension Specialist in Oregon  and other states  can suggest other methods.

Jump to

Method Does it work? Is it safe? Recommendation
A
Physically Remove Plants
Effective
High risk
B
Targeted Grazing
Somewhat effective
Low risk
C
Biocontrol for Gorse
Somewhat effective
Low risk
D
Herbicides Triclopyr and Glyphosate
Effective
Moderate risk
Use if Necessary
E
If Using Herbicides, Protect Yourself & Minimize Risks
 
A

Physically Remove Plants

Non-Chemical Method

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

Physically Remove Plants

Dig out individual plants and small patches. Remove the roots. This may not kill the plants if not all the roots are removed. Control requires monitoring and follow-up.

Does it work?
Effective
  • Several years of monitoring and effort are required to get rid of gorse.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
High effort
  • Cut and remove stems to access roots. Dig the roots out with tools.
  • Return to the area each year and take action as needed.
What's the risk?
High risk
  • Wear thick gloves, clothing, and shoes to protect yourself from gorse thorns.
  • If you are injured by gorse spines, clean the wound with soap and water.
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE
  • Control large gorse plants by cutting stems near the ground. Expect regrowth from the stem below the cut. Plan further action to kill the new shoots.
  • Dig or pull out plants when the soil is moist. Soil disturbance encourages seed to germinate.
  • Dispose of the plants by chipping or compost plants in place.
Large gorse plant in pasture

Forest and Kim Starr, Starr Environmental, Bugwood.org

Manage large gorse plants by cutting stems near the ground. Expect regrowth from the roots and plan to kill the regrowth.

Worker using weed wrench

James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Manual removal of gorse is effective but labor intensive. Use a Weed Wrench™ or similar tool.

 

Worker feeding plant stems into a tractor-mounted chipper

iStock

Use a chipper to dispose of the stems.

Gorse Removal Tips

  • Take this action during the dry season (July to August), before or during flowering (late winter through early summer), and before seed pods mature to limit its spread.
  • Gorse plants with established root systems will sprout new shoots below a cut after the plant is cut down. Further action is needed to kill the new shoots.
  • Herbicide application is a common technique to control the regrowth.
  • Look for regrowth. Control it as needed.

Removing Gorse with Tools

  • Dig or pull out plants when the soil is moist.
  • The best time to pull plants out of the ground is following rain and before warm, dry weather. Moist soil is easier to work with when pulling young gorse plants out of the ground.
  • Soil disturbance encourages seeds to germinate. Return to the site and kill seedlings.

Soil Disturbance and Erosion

  • Minimize soil disturbance as much as possible when removing gorse.
  • Regrade the soil after digging roots. Apply mulch (when appropriate).
  • Take steps to prevent erosion as needed.
  • Replant the area to shade gorse seedlings.

Composting in Place

  • Compost the plant material in place.
  • Use loppers or a saw to cut the branches so they lie flat, and make a pile with the branches.
  • This step will help the material to break down faster and poses less of a fire risk.
 
B

Targeted Grazing

Non-Chemical Method

Scott Bauer, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org

Targeted Grazing

  • Goats eat gorse seedlings and tender foliage.
  • Goats can be used as part of an overall strategy for gorse management.
Does it work?
Somewhat effective
  • Gorse plants will sprout new stems following grazing. Follow up with other control actions.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
Moderate effort
  • Establish temporary fences to contain the livestock in an area with gorse.
  • Move the livestock before they damage desired plants.
What's the risk?
Low risk
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE

Grazing is an effective way to reduce gorse canopy and keep it from flowering. For best results, follow up with other control activities.

Gorse grazing Tips

  • After livestock eat the plants, gorse will grow new stems.
  • Goats will eat desirable vegetation as well as the targeted weed.
  • Grazing gorse is most effective on young plants when plant density is low. Older plants are more resistant to grazing.
  • If you don’t own livestock, you’ll need to find and contract a service that performs vegetation management with animals.
  • Contact professional pest control companies with experience grazing goats to control gorse.
  • Ask your Soil and Water Conservation District  (Oregon) for referrals.

Livestock Grazing Reference

For details about grazing, see Livestock Grazing Guidelines for Controlling Noxious Weeds in the Western United States  (University of Nevada, Reno).

 
C

Biocontrol for Gorse

Non-Chemical Method

Eric Coombs, Oregon Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org

Biocontrol for Gorse

  • Collect and redistribute insects that attack gorse seeds and stems as part of a long-term control strategy.
  • These insects reduce seed viability and weaken plants.
  • The photo shows damage to seeds from the gorse seed weevil.
Does it work?
Somewhat effective
  • Biocontrol on its own won’t get rid of gorse. Combine it with other control methods.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
Moderate effort
  • Collect insects from an established stand of gorse.
  • Distribute the insects on gorse plants at your site.
  • Monitor your site for biocontrol insect activity.
What's the risk?
Low risk
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
NONE

More About Biocontrol for Gorse

Most state agriculture agencies support the use and redistribution of three biological control agents for gorse: gorse seed weevil (Exapion ulicis), gorse spider mite (Tetranychus lintearius), and gorse thrips (Sericothrips staphylinus).

Biocontrol Reference

For more information about biocontrol for gorse, see Weed Biological Control  (Oregon Department of Agriculture).

Adult and child using stick and paper to collect biocontrol insects

Eric Coombs, Oregon Department of Agriculture, Bugwood.org

Collect insects from established stands of gorse in this way:

  • Use a stick to strike plant stems and collect the insects on a fabric or paper surface.
  • Transport the collected insects in a container to new areas. Distribute the insects to contribute to long-term control of this invasive species.
  • The method shown in the photo for broom also works for gorse.
 
D

Herbicides Triclopyr and Glyphosate

Chemical Method: Use with caution

Chameleonseye, iStock

Herbicides Triclopyr and Glyphosate

Use if Necessary

Herbicide products that contain the active ingredients triclopyr and glyphosate effectively kill gorse when used according to label directions. Requires monitoring and follow-up.

Does it work?
Effective
  • Several years of monitoring and effort are necessary to get rid of gorse.
  • Use preventive measures for best results.
How much effort?
Moderate effort
  • Treat individual gorse plants and patches.
  • Return to the area each year and take action as needed.
What's the risk?
Moderate risk
  • Herbicides come with real risks. ALWAYS read the entire label front to back. Review instructions even for brands you know.
  • Herbicides can run off your site into waterways and may harm wildlife. See How to Keep Pesticides Out of Waterways.
Possible risk of exposure or harm from chemicals
El uso de herbicidas conlleva cierto grado de riesgo. El riesgo más bajo se presenta con el uso de métodos alternativos.

You may be exposed to an herbicide if you:

  • Get it on your skin
  • Breathe it in
  • Eat or smoke afterward without washing hands
  • Touch or eat plants that are wet with spray (you, pets, or children)
  • Bring it inside on your shoes or clothes

Follow directions closely to reduce risk.

Herbicides with active ingredients triclopyr and/or glyphosate, used individually or in a mixture, are effective chemical treatments for gorse. Look for these chemical names in the “Active Ingredients” section of product labels.

Photo of herbicide label highlighting active ingredient triclopyr

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

  • The white box on the example product label highlights active ingredient triclopyr. The text on the label states “Kills completely - stumps and roots won’t grow.”
  • Triclopyr doesn’t injure most grasses. It is a good choice for treating gorse that is growing next to desired grasses in lawn, pasture, and meadow areas.
Photo of herbicide label highlighting active ingredient glyphosate

Weston Miller, Oregon State University

  • The white box on the example label highlights active ingredient glyphosate. Text on the label states “Kills grass and weeds around flower beds, trees, shrubs....”
  • Glyphosate will damage most plants and grasses. Don’t let the spray contact plants you want to keep.

Herbicide Application Tips

  • Premixed products are available in hardware stores and garden centers.
  • Apply herbicide to gorse in the spring or early summer when it is actively growing, before or after it blooms. Treat gorse before seed pods develop to minimize seed production.
  • Herbicides may be less effective if applied to flowering gorse plants. The flowers shield the foliage and make the herbicide application less effective.
  • Common herbicide application techniques include foliar (leaves), cut-stump, and basal-bark application. See examples below.
  • Gorse may take several months to die following an herbicide application.
  • Large stands of gorse killed by an herbicide could be a fire hazard. Consider removing or composting the dead plants.
  • Look for gorse regrowth and re-treat every year, if needed.

 

Minimize the potential impact of herbicides to bees and other pollinators. Treat gorse plants before they flower. If plants are flowering when you need to treat them, use the cut-stump or basal-bark herbicide application technique. Avoid spraying pollinators directly. For more information, see OSU’s How to Reduce Bee Poisoning from Pesticides.

 

Herbicide Application Methods

Foliar (leaves), basal-bark, and cut-stump application methods all effectively kill gorse. Choose the right method for your situation.

Worker spraying herbicide tall foliage

James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Foliar (Leaves) Application

  • Spraying herbicide on the foliage of gorse is only practical when it can be done without damaging nearby plants you want to keep.
  • A backpack sprayer is effective for treating small areas.
  • For extensive infestations, treat initially with a foliar application to kill the seedlings, saplings, and shoots. Then follow up with basal-bark or cut-stump applications on the remaining stems.
Diagram of basal-bark herbicide application technique

James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Basal-Bark Application

  • This works best for stems that are less than 6 inches in diameter.
  • Concentrated herbicide (oil soluble) is mixed with another ingredient (adjuvant), typically a seed oil.
  • The mixture is sprayed on stems from the ground to a height of 12–18 inches.
  • The plant absorbs the herbicide sprayed in the trunk. The herbicide moves to the roots.
Gloved hand spraying herbicide with dye on cut stump

Lyon Duong, UF/IFAS

Cut-Stump Application

  • Cut stems as close to the ground level as possible.
  • Remove sawdust and debris from the cut.
  • Apply concentrated herbicide to the area just inside the bark. This area has living tissue (cambium) that will transport the herbicide to the roots.
  • Apply herbicide as soon as possible after cutting the stem.
  • For cut-stump applications, triclopyr is more effective during the early summer. Glyphosate is more effective when applied from mid-summer to leaf fall.
 

If Using Herbicides, Protect Yourself & Minimize Risks

Chemical Method: Use with Caution
Blue heron in marsh

BrianLasenby, iStock

Why is it important to read herbicide labels?

  • They have detailed information on how to use the product correctly and legally.
  • They contain information on potential hazards of the product.
  • They provide instructions you should follow for poisonings and spills.
  • Following label instructions helps you to minimize the risks and maximize the benefits.

Key Herbicide Safety Tips

  • Read the entire label front to back.
  • Follow the instructions.
  • Review the instructions even for brands you know.
  • Only apply the product where the label says it may be applied.
  • Be precise in your application. More is not better.

The Label is the Law

ALWAYS read the label before using herbicide products. The label is a legal document that provides information on how to safely use the herbicide. This helps avoid harm to human health and the environment. Using an herbicide in off-label ways is illegal. It can result in legal enforcement actions.

READ THE LABEL & Follow Instructions
It has instructions to protect you and the environment.

  • Labels are different for every product and they often change over time.
  • Use a magnifying glass for small print.
  • Pay attention to CAUTION, WARNING, and DANGER statements.
  • Pay attention to the PRECAUTIONARY STATEMENTS.
  • The law states you must read and follow herbicide instructions.

Protect Yourself
Eye, skin & lung irritants

  • Wear the right protective gear. This often includes chemical-resistant gloves, safety glasses, a long-sleeve shirt, pants, socks, and shoes.
  • Mix outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
  • Wash hands after mixing or applying, and before eating or smoking.
  • Take a shower immediately after handling herbicides.
  • Wash clothes worn while mixing or applying separately from other laundry.

Protect Children & Pets
Children and pets are at risk if they eat or touch the plants before it dries.

  • Keep them away during and after applying herbicides (read label for how long).
  • Remove toys and pet dishes from yard before applying.
  • Don’t track herbicide products into your home on shoes or clothes.

Protect Plants You Want to Keep

  • Glyphosate and similar herbicide ingredients damage both grass and broadleaf plants.
  • Minimize spraying of foliage, stems, exposed roots, or the trunks of desirable shrubs or trees to avoid harm.
  • Follow the label to avoid damaging the roots of trees and shrubs.

Avoid Wet, Windy, or Hot Weather
Use during favorable weather for best results.

  • Don’t spray when it’s raining or when rain is expected in the next 24 hours.
  • Wind causes spray to drift that can get on you and desired plants.
  • Herbicides may be less effective in hot weather if the target plants are moisture-stressed.
  • Some herbicides can turn into a vapor in hot weather and damage nearby plants.

Protect Pollinators

  • Apply in the early morning or evening when bees are less active.
  • Kill weeds before they flower. Avoid spraying flowering plants.
  • Do not spray on bees or insects.

Storage & Disposal

  • Store in a secure area away from children.
  • Don’t put unused herbicide products in the trash.
  • Never pour down any drain or waterway.
  • Take unused herbicides to a hazardous waste facility.

Call  1-800-CLEANUP (1-800-253-2687) to find out where to dispose of herbicides.

For the Portland metro region in Oregon, contact Metro’s Recycling Information. Call  503-234-3000, email   or visit Metro’s website  

More about:

About Using Pesticides on School Grounds in Oregon

If using pesticides on school grounds, there are special rules in Oregon. See School Integrated Pest Management  (Oregon Department of Agriculture).

NEED HELP?

The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC)  can answer questions about pest control chemicals.
 1-800-858-7378 or npic@ace.orst.edu  

Consider using a licensed pest or weed control company. Learn How to Hire a Pest Control Company.

Your local Extension Specialist in Oregon  and other states  can suggest other methods.

Invasive Species Alert

  • Invasives are non-native species that spread aggressively and alter the environment.
  • Controlling gorse is costly.
  • Please do your part to control it on property you manage. It can spread beyond your property and have a negative impact on your neighbors.

If you think you’ve found gorse in the grey areas of this map, please report it to the Oregon Invasive Species Hotline at:  1-866-INVADER (1-888-468-2337) or use their online reporting form  

open Map static invasive map
Invasive species data @ 2022, iMapInvasives (NatureServe)

The map shows the distribution of gorse in Oregon. If you find gorse in a new area (orange shows already reported cases), please report it  

View Larger Map >

Content provided by editor Weston Miller and writer J. Jeremiah Mann. Pesticide safety information edited by Kaci Buhl.

 Peer reviewed by OSU Department of Horticulture.

Photo of Weston Miller

Weston Miller

Project Founder and Content Writer

Weston Miller served as Community and Urban Horticulture faculty for Oregon State University Extension Service for Clackamas, Multnomah, and Washington Counties. Weston is an author for content for this website. He developed funding partnerships with Portland area agencies to initiate and build out the Solve Pest Problems website focused on this goals:

J. Jeremiah Mann

J. Jeremiah Mann

J. Jeremiah Mann completed a Physical Science undergraduate degree at Humboldt State University, and M.S, Ph.D focusing on plant science topics at UC Davis. He went on to work for the Natural Resources Conservation Service and in a leadership position serving a private agricultural technology company. He currently lives in Sacramento California where he consults on pest and property management topics.

Photo of Kaci Buhl

Kaci Buhl

At the state level, I lead the Pesticide Safety Education Program (PSEP). The program hosts live recertification events around the state, serving over 1,000 licensed pesticide applicators each year. We also produce web-based training modules and license-preparation study manuals. Special training for unlicensed pesticide applicators is also available through a grant from the USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant Program. The PSEP at OSU works closely with the Oregon Department of Agriculture's Pesticides Division.